Blackhead Busting: Top 5 Myths & 5 Expert Tips for a Clearer Complexion
Blackheads are a common skincare woe, often popping up on our noses, foreheads, and chins.
These dark spots on the skin can be a source of frustration, especially when they’re stubborn or just keep coming back.
Whether you’ve just noticed your first blackheads or have been battling them for years, this blog will provide all the information you need to understand, manage, and help reduce them.
We’ll cover what blackheads are, why they form, debunk common myths, and give you the best tips and treatments to clear them.
⏱️ Read Time: 15 Mins
what are blackheads and how do they form?
Before diving into prevention methods, let’s clarify what blackheads are.
Blackheads are a type of non-inflammatory acne and occur when pores or hair follicles become clogged with sebum (oil), dead skin cells, and bacteria. Unlike whiteheads, blackheads remain open at the surface, causing the contents of the clogged pore to oxidize and darken when exposed to air, giving them their characteristic black appearance —hence the name “blackhead.”
Blackheads are commonly found on the face, particularly on the nose, chin and forehead. This is due to there being a relatively high concentration of sebaceous (oil) glands in these areas, resulting in an excess production of sebum. However, blackheads can appear anywhere on the body.
Blackheads can result from a variety of factors, including:
- Dead Skin Cells: When skin cells don’t shed properly, they can accumulate and mix with oil, resulting in blockages.
- Genetics: Some people naturally produce more oil or have larger pores, making them more prone to blackheads.
- Environmental Factors: Pollution, humidity, and sweat can contribute to the buildup of bacteria and oil on your skin.
- Hormonal Changes: During puberty, pregnancy or menstruation, hormonal fluctuations cause an increase in oil production, making blackheads more likely.
- Improper Skincare: Using the wrong products with the wrong ingredients in your skincare routine can exacerbate the problem.
5 top tips FOR preventing blackheads from occurRing
At ProSkin Clinic & Health UK, we frequently help clients tackle this concern through personalised treatments and our expert skincare advice.
Below are some of our top 5 expert tips to help you reduce and prevent blackheads in these troublesome areas.
top-tip number 1 - embrace Double Cleansing
One of the most effective ways to prevent blackheads is by adopting a double-cleansing routine. This method involves two steps: first, use an oil-based cleanser to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and excess oil, followed by a water-based cleanser to remove any remaining impurities.
Why Double Cleansing Works
- Thorough Removal: An oil-based cleanser can break down stubborn products and excess sebum that a regular cleanser might miss.
- Balanced Skin: Double cleansing helps maintain your skin’s natural moisture balance, reducing the chance of excess oil production that can lead to blackheads.
- Better Absorption: Clean skin allows your other skincare products—like serums and treatments—to penetrate more effectively, enhancing their benefits.
How to Double Cleanse
- Start with an Oil-Based Cleanser: Apply a few pumps of your chosen oil cleanser to dry skin, massaging it in to dissolve makeup and impurities then emulsify with some tepid water and remove.
- Follow with a Water-Based Cleanser: Rinse off the oil and then use a foaming gel or lotion cleanser to wash away any remaining residue.
top-tip number 2 - exfoliation
Exfoliating is key to reducing blackheads. By gently removing dead skin cells, you keep your pores from becoming blocked. When you think of exfoliation, you may think of rough scrubs. These can make your skin more inflamed and damage your skin’s barrier.
Physical exfoliation (like scrubs or beads) can sometimes aggravate blackheads by irritating the skin and causing micro-tears to your skin. Instead, opt for chemical exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). These help to remove dead skin cells and unclog pores more effectively. BHAs, such as salicylic acid, are particularly good for oily and acne-prone skin as they penetrate deeper into the pores.
At ProSkin Clinic & Health, we offer a variety of exfoliating treatments; a purifying treatment that incorporates steam to help loosen the contents of the pores, making it easier to remove impurities manually. For even longer-lasting results, we recommend micro-needling or chemical peels.
These advanced exfoliation techniques promote skin renewal, deeply cleanse pores, and help prevent future blackhead formation, providing excellent results with minimal downtime.
top-tip number 3 - use a clay masque
Clay masques have absorbent properties that help draw out impurities, toxins, and excess sebum (oil) from deep within your pores.
These clays have a negative charge, which binds to the positively charged toxins and impurities in your skin.
As the clay dries, it pulls these substances to the surface, effectively unclogging pores and removing dirt, oil, and dead skin cells that can contribute to blackhead formation.
Benefits of Clay Masques for Oily Skin:
- Absorbs excess oil: Clay masques are especially beneficial for oily skin types because they can soak up excess oil without stripping the skin of its natural moisture barrier.
- Unclogs and tightens pores: By removing dirt and oil from the pores, clay masks help reduce the size of enlarged pores, making them less noticeable and reducing the risk of future blackheads.
- Gently exfoliates: As the clay mask dries, it lightly exfoliates the skin’s surface, helping remove dead skin cells that could clog pores.
- Soothes irritation: Clay, especially kaolin, is gentle and can help soothe inflammation or redness caused by acne or blackheads.
How to Use Clay MasQues for Best Results:
- Frequency: Use these masks 1-2 times a week for oily or blackhead-prone skin. Overuse can lead to excessive dryness, which may cause your skin to overcompensate by producing more oil.
- Application:
- Cleanse your face thoroughly to remove surface dirt and oil.
- Apply an even layer of the mask, focusing on areas prone to blackheads (typically the T-zone: forehead, nose, and chin).
- Avoid the delicate skin around your eyes and mouth.
- Let the Mask Dry:
- Allow the mask to dry, but not completely harden. When a mask fully hardens, it can strip too much moisture from the skin, leading to irritation. A good rule is to remove it when it starts to feel firm but still slightly pliable; this is typically 10-15 minutes
- Rinse and Moisturise:
- Use lukewarm water to gently rinse off the mask, avoiding scrubbing. Pat your skin dry with a clean towel.
- Follow up with a lightweight, oil-free moisturiser to restore hydration without clogging pores.
- Customise Based on Skin Type:
- If you have combination skin, you can use the mask only on oily or blackhead-prone areas (like the T-zone) and skip drier areas (like the cheeks).
- If your skin is sensitive, look for clay specifically for sensitive skin, often with soothing ingredients like aloe vera or chamomile
Key CLAY MASQUE Ingredients to Look for:
- Bentonite Clay: Highly absorbent, excellent for oily and acne-prone skin.
- Kaolin Clay: Gentle and suitable for sensitive or dry skin types while still effective for oil control.
Precautions:
- Avoid Over-drying: Using clay masks too often or leaving them on for too long can strip your skin of necessary oils, leading to irritation or increased oil production as your skin tries to overcompensate.
- Sensitive Skin: If you have sensitive skin, opt for gentler clays (like white kaolin) and avoid masks with high concentrations of astringent ingredients.
We recommend our favourite multi use Clay Masque for best results!
top-tip number 4 - introduce vitamin a into your skincare routine
Retinoids, which are derivatives of vitamin A – play a crucial role in the prevention and treatment of blackheads (and other forms of acne).
Vitamin A is a vital nutrient for skin health. Vitamin A’s key function in the skin is its ability to interact with retinoid receptors found in skin cells, leading to several important benefits:
- Supports Skin Renewal: Vitamin A encourages the production of new skin cells, which keeps the skin looking fresh and youthful. This is particularly important for acne treatment, as it prevents dead cells from accumulating and clogging pores.
- Collagen Production: Vitamin A also stimulates collagen production, which helps in maintaining skin elasticity and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making it beneficial for both acne and anti-aging.
- Regulates Oil Production: Vitamin A helps to balance oil production, reducing the likelihood of clogged pores and blackhead formation.
We love our Environ Vitamin A Step-Up System, a skincare program designed to introduce increasing levels of vitamin A to the skin gradually, allowing it to acclimate to the potent benefits of this essential nutrient.
When relating the system to blackhead prevention and treatment, it’s important to understand how the gradual introduction of vitamin A aligns with the function of retinoids in skin health, particularly in regulating cell turnover, oil production, and unclogging pores.
top-tip number 5 - avoid squeezing or picking blackheads
It can be incredibly tempting to squeeze or pick at blackheads at home, but doing so can push the debris deeper into the skin or cause inflammation, leading to more breakouts or even scarring.
Here’s why you should avoid at-home extractions and why professional treatment is the safer option.
- Pushing Debris Deeper into the Skin: When you squeeze a blackhead, especially without the right tools or technique, you risk pushing the clogged material deeper into the pore. This can cause the clog to become more stubborn or even lead to the formation of a closed comedone (whitehead) or a more severe pustule (inflamed pimple).
- Infection: Your hands and fingernails carry bacteria that can easily transfer to your skin when you pick at blackheads. Introducing bacteria to an open pore or squeezing too hard can result in inflammation and infection, turning a simple blackhead into a painful breakout.
- Inflammation and Scarring: The pressure applied during manual extraction at home is often too aggressive for the skin, especially when done repetitively. This can lead to skin trauma, causing irritation, swelling, or even permanent scarring. The skin may heal unevenly, leaving dark marks (hyperpigmentation) or lasting scars behind.
Why Professional Blackhead Extractions Are Safer:
- Sterile Environment: At ProSkin Clinic & Health UK, we ensure that all tools and hands are sterilised before performing any extractions. This drastically reduces the risk of infection, ensuring that your skin remains healthy during and after the procedure.
- Proper Tools: We use specialised, sterile extraction tools designed for safely and effectively removing blackheads without damaging the surrounding skin. These tools apply the correct amount of pressure in a controlled way to lift the debris from the pore without causing trauma.
- Expert Techniques: Our expertly trained skin care professionals have the experience and knowledge to identify the right blackheads for extraction and know the correct method to extract them without irritating the skin. This expertise minimises the risk of scarring and inflammation, leaving your skin in better condition.
5 MYTHS ABOUT BLACKHEADS YOU NEED TO STOP BELIEVING
Blackheads are one of the most common skincare concerns, yet there are plenty of misconceptions surrounding how to treat and prevent them.
When you’re trying to manage blackheads, understanding the truth behind the myths is essential to achieving clearer, healthier skin. Let’s debunk five common myths about blackheads;
MYTH 1 - bLACKHEADS ARE CAUSED BY DIRT
Truth: Blackheads aren’t a result of poor hygiene or dirt. They form when a mixture of dead skin cells and oil (sebum) clogs your pores. The black colour isn’t dirt but the result of oxidation—when the clogged material is exposed to air, it darkens.
What To Do: Regular exfoliation and cleansing with products like our favourite Sebu-Wash Gel Cleanser or Cleansing Gel can help prevent clogged pores by removing excess oil and dead skin cells, keeping blackheads at bay without stripping your skin.
MYTH 2 - BLACKHEADS CAN BE "SHRUNK"
Truth: You can’t shrink or permanently close your pores. However, you can reduce their appearance by keeping them clean and unclogged. Products that exfoliate and regulate oil production help minimise the look of large pores over time.
What to Do Instead: Use retinoid-based products like vitamin A to help smooth skin texture and prevent clogged pores. At ProSkin Clinic & Health UK, we recommend a personalised skincare regimen, including products and in-clinic treatments to achieve a clearer, more refined complexion.
MYTH 3 - YOU CAN "CLOSE" YOUR PORES AFTER CLEANSING
Truth: Pores don’t open and close like doors. While steam can help loosen debris inside your pores, they don’t physically open, and you can’t “close” them with cold water or toners. Instead, keeping your pores clean and minimising oil production is the best way to prevent blackheads.
What to Do Instead: Focus on keeping pores clear with the right skincare products. Cleansers with salicylic acid masques or clay masques, can help clear out excess oil and debris, reducing the appearance of large pores over time.
MYTH 4 - OILY SKIN IS THE ONLY CAUSE OF BLACKHEADS
Truth: While oily skin does contribute to blackhead formation, people with all skin types can get blackheads. Other factors like dead skin cell buildup, hormonal changes, and even genetics can play a role.
What to Do Instead: Focus on maintaining a balanced skincare routine that includes regular exfoliation and the use of vitamin A products to regulate cell turnover.
myth 5 - homemade products are effective for treating blackheads
Truth: DIY blackhead treatments like lemon juice, baking soda, and honey may sound promising, but there’s little to no scientific evidence that they actually work for blackheads. While some ingredients may offer mild exfoliation or temporary oil control, they don’t target the root cause of blackheads, which is clogged pores.
What To Do Instead: Opt for scientifically backed treatments that address the root causes of blackheads.
Blackhead management at home. How OUR vitamin step-up system work?
The Step-Up System introduces vitamin A in progressively higher concentrations across various product lines (e.g., AVST and Youth EssentiA).
This gradual increase allows the skin to adjust without the irritation that can come with starting higher concentrations of vitamin A too quickly. Each step builds on the previous one, enhancing skin health over time.
role of vitamin a in blackhead prevention in Step UP system:
- Gradual Skin Acclimation:
- Just like retinoids, vitamin A in the step up system promotes cell turnover and helps regulate oil production, key factors in preventing blackheads. The difference here is the slow, controlled increase in vitamin A concentration. This approach minimises the risk of irritation, redness, and “purging,” a common issue when starting stronger retinoid products too quickly.
- Regulates Sebum Production:
- Our Vitamin A formulations, like retinoids, help balance sebum production. By starting with lower doses of vitamin A and moving up, you help reduce the amount of oil produced by the skin, minimising the chances of clogged pores and blackheads. This gradual introduction is ideal for those prone to sensitivity, as it prevents the overstimulation of the skin, which can lead to excessive dryness or irritation.
- Prevents and Treats Blackheads Through Pore Unclogging:
- The Vitamin A Step-Up System’s approach to increasing vitamin A levels mirrors how retinoids prevent blackheads: by encouraging faster skin cell turnover, which helps keep pores clear. This reduces the risk of dead skin cells combining with sebum to form blackheads. The gradual approach ensures that the skin adjusts over time, reducing the likelihood of an initial breakout or purging phase.
- Encourages Healthier Skin Barrier Function:
- Vitamin A, supports the overall health of the skin by improving its barrier function. This helps maintain moisture balance and protect against external pollutants and bacteria, which can aggravate acne and blackhead formation. As the skin strengthens with each step up, it becomes more resistant to the factors that can lead to clogged pores.
how the step-up system helps avoid irritaiton and purging:
- Slow and Controlled Increase: In contrast to jumping straight into high-potency retinoids (like tretinoin), our Step-Up System allows for a smooth transition by starting with lower concentrations of vitamin A. This minimises the potential irritation, redness, and purging (temporary increase in breakouts) that can sometimes occur when starting strong retinoids.
- Hydrating and Soothing Formulations: The Step-Up System are often formulated with other beneficial ingredients, such as antioxidants, peptides, and moisturising agents. These ingredients help hydrate and protect the skin while vitamin A works to clear pores and prevent blackheads. This balance is critical, as retinoids on their own can sometimes cause dryness, which might irritate the skin or trigger excess oil production.
blackhead prevetion through multi-ingridient appraoch:
Our recommended formulations don’t just rely on vitamin A alone. Along with the vitamin A variants in the Step-Up System (like retinyl palmitate or retinoic acid derivatives), the products also incorporate:
- Antioxidants (like Vitamin C and E): These help protect the skin from oxidative stress, which can exacerbate acne and blackheads.
- Peptides: These promote collagen production and skin repair, supporting a clearer and more resilient complexion.
- Hydrators: Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and other moisturising compounds ensure the skin remains hydrated, which helps prevent the overproduction of oil that can lead to blackheads.
products suitable for blackhead treatment:
Depending on where you are in the Step-Up System, specific products may be more suitable for blackhead-prone skin:
- Skin EssentiA (AVST) Range: Ideal for beginners, starting with AVST 1, it introduces low levels of vitamin A to help regulate oil and promote skin renewal gradually.
- Youth EssentiA Range: This range features higher concentrations of vitamin A and is suited for those further along in the Step-Up System. The more potent formulations are excellent for tackling persistent blackheads while improving overall skin health.
- Sebu-Wash Gel Cleanser: This foaming gel cleanser contains salicylic acid, which helps to exfoliate the skin, unclog pores, and reduce excess oil. It works to remove surface impurities, making it an essential step for anyone dealing with blackheads.
- Hydroxy Acid Sebu-Clear Mask: This clay mask contains a blend of salicylic acid and kaolin clay, which works to absorb oil from the skin’s surface and remove impurities lodged deep within the pores, exfoliating dead skin cells and detoxifying the skin, preventing pore blockages that can lead to blackheads
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